Traversing Switzerland Mamma Style

When we told people we were about to fly to Europe and travel through 3 countries over two weeks with our 10-month-old, many responded with a version of “are you crazy?” While traveling with a near-toddler certainly adds to the level of difficulty, our adventure ended up being everything I had hoped for and more. Having circled the globe, both for pleasure and work, with friends and with family, I can honestly say that this trip ranks as my favorite so far. In further reflection following our time together abroad, I find myself highly motivated to travel more as a family. Even when it’s a place I may have been before, seeing something through Samuel’s eyes is like experiencing it all over again for the first time - nothing short of absolutely amazing. And, never is there a time when we are more present with each other as a family than when we’re together, away from the day-to-day of home and work, simply enjoying the food, the surroundings, and one other.


We had a little over a week to spend in Switzerland and while it’s a relatively small country, each region provides its own unique experience. I did my research beforehand to decide where we’d spend our time and landed on 3 smaller cities, which may have been pushing it a little, but ended up working out perfectly. As you’ll learn, Lucerne, Lugano and Montreux combine to give you an incredible European experience, blending in cultural elements from surrounding Germany, Italy and France.

Flying into Switzerland is absolutely beautiful. The country is gorgeous! We landed in Zurich, rented a car and drove directly to Lucerne. I am sure Zurich is amazing, but we intentionally focused on the smaller towns for this trip - avoiding the large urban centers. I love the train system in Europe and it usually is my preferred way to travel, but having a car was incredibly convenient. Switzerland’s size and roadways make for the perfect conditions to engage in short commutes (2 hours or less) while soaking in breathtaking scenery the entire way. (Mamma Pointer: With the little one in tow, it was ultra convenient to dictate our schedule - when we’d leave each destination, working to time our drives with mid-day naps. We’d hand Samuel his bottle in the car seat and minutes later he’d be fast asleep, only to awake in a new location, refreshed and ready to go).

 Lucerne

Lucerne has a very medieval feeling and is heavily influenced in food, language and overall culture by its close by German neighbor. There are large squares all over town connected by bridges which are one of the highlights of the city. Chapel Bridge is located right in the middle of the city and is considered the oldest covered bridge in Europe. It is a wooden pedestrian bridge with beautiful paintings inside that takes you across a gorgeous river that runs through the town.

Another stop on our list wile in Lucerne was the Lion Monument, which I really loved. Sometimes, you read all about a monument, only to experience it in person and find yourself asking what all the rave is about - leaving disappointed. But, this one was amazing!. It’s conveniently located in a park very close to the center of town. Once inside the park, which requires a short uphill walk, there is a lake with an incredibly detailed lion carved into the side of a large stone wall surrounding it. The political message around it is controversial, but the size and precision of the carving, which was crafted in 1821, is truly impressive and a must see when in Lucerne.

Built on the shores of Lake Lucerne with pristine mountains rising up just beyond the water, Lucerne finds itself with a natural and breathtaking backrop. There are public parks along the shore that connect with small beaches where you can go swimming in the lake. The water is a bit cold, but many people dive right in. And, if you have a water baby like ours (and a water husband), the Lake provides a refreshing and joyful activity at no cost. One of our favorite spots that supported our swimming adventures was Seebad, which is a two story dock with stairs that go right into the water and a giant sundeck to soak in the surroundings. You have to pay a minimal fee to enter, but once you do, you can stay all day. With two wading pools that bring in the lake water, dock areas with steps to access the open water, a bar with food and drinks, lounge chairs and bathroom facilities, it truly is a fantastic spot - a low-cost gem for travelers. (For the mamma’s out there who worry as much as I do, the open water is incredibly deep, and I’d encourage you bring blow up floaties for your little ones as to not take up too much space in the luggage while still having a safety enhancement when going for a swim).

As another activity while you’re in town, hiking around Lake Rotsee, one of the worlds best rowing sites, Is a relatively easy walk and also a chance to further connect with nature (and your family). There’s a car park that’s convenient to find, just 10 - 15 minutes out of town and right next to the trailhead. With plenty of ducks and other tiny creatures, the wooded outline of the lake is a great place for little people to spot some of their favorite animals (squirrels, bunny rabbits, frogs, etc.).

And, if you’re like my two boys (the big one and the little one), then your family might be interested in indulging in some sweets from Bachmann. This bakery / chocolateire is exceptional and you likely can’t go wrong with any of your selections.

The Details

What to Do
Where to Eat and Drink
Where to Stay

We stayed at Hotel Beau Sejour. Small and simple, the hotel has an AMAZING location. It's across the street from the Lake with stunning views of the water and mountains. And, it also happens to be next to a quaint little park, perfect for playtime with your little one. The hotel serves a great breakfast each morning that's built into the cost and the staff are wonderful. If you stay there and have a car, let them know ahead of time. They have a few spots to park in on the property, and if not, you have to park down the street, which is still convenient.


Lugano

Until researching Switzerland, I had never heard of Lugano. Now, Lugano is one of my favorite places in the world. This town is very small and aptly named for the Lake it sits on - Lake Lugano. You can actually see Italy across the lake and the neighboring country is so close that many townspeople take a 15 minute boat right to work in Italy each day (residing in Switzerland, but commuting via water for their occupations). Because of the proximity, there is a very heavy Italian influence and many people actually speak Italian. Given my own Italian heritage, I’m incredibly biased to everything about this stunning city that screams Italy (from the food to the language to the music). Even my son, Samuel Gianni, seemed to feel at home in this lakeside, ‘easy like Sunday morning’ setting. In fact, the first time he every slept through the night was in a 5-star hotel experience in Lugano with a crib that included a mattress that I’m fairly certain was beyond the comfort of the one my husband and I experience each night in our home. With perfect views of the water, a perfectly fluffed tiny person pillow, and a mattress fit for a 20 point king, he was very comfortable. (Mamma pointer: while we don’t have the kind of dollars that can afford us luxurious stays wherever we go, the Swiss Diamond Hotel was totally worth the splurge for two nights, and compared to some of the costs of hotels stateside, it’s actually a reasonable price given the amenities and surroundings (hint - the pool is fantastic as is the grass-style beach overlooking the lake).

While we were in Lugano, our whole goal was to relax, and I can say we did just that (the hotel certainly helped!). The town itself has plenty of shopping and restaurants with a lively and joyful energy. We spent a day walking through the various piazzas and even stumbled upon a farmers market. The main square included a kids area with rides and Samuel loved his red Ferrari on the mini merry-go-round (another clearly Italian influence). Beyond the rides, there are a number of toddler-friendly, public playgrounds within the town. Until becoming a parent I never realized how many playgrounds I would visit, but it’s become a really fun and regular activity. Samuel gets time to let out his abundant energy (he’s a bunny rabbit) and make friends wherever we go. And, my husband and I get a moment to hang out and enjoy one other. In the case of Lugano’s public parks, they’ve not only figured out how to include playground equipment that was specifically built for smaller people (i.e. swings that are 1 foot off the ground, slides with ladders that little legs can access, etc.), but they of course have a cafe/bar serving refreshing spritzes overlooking the playscape. Europeans really do everything better when it comes to taking care of adult and children’s needs.

The Details

What to Do
Where to Eat and Drink
  • Barcaoli- truly a mom and pop restaurant. The mom was cooking while the son was waiting on us. Lovely restaurant, lovely food, lovely people.

  • Risorante della Torre

  • Laderdach- everyone needs chocolate in Switzerland

Where to Stay

We stayed at the Swiss  Diamond Hotel. This hotel is gorgeous! It's a five star hotel and right across from Lake Lugano. Their pool area is amazing and so relaxing. They also have parking across from the hotel and a delicious free breakfast upstairs on a terrace with Champagne : ) From here you can walk to Morcote, which is basically like being in Italy. Everyone speaks Italian and all the menus are Italian food. The hotel is probably a 20 minute drive to Lugano but the hotel has a free shuttle that will take you there and the folks who coordinate transportation are lovely. 


Montreux

Montreux is on Lake Geneva with France just on the opposite shore. They call this area the Swiss Riviera and it does not disappoint. Montreux has an abundance of activities to engage in and was the largest of the three towns we stayed in by far. The boardwalk at the base of the city that’s built on a hill is stunning and there’s a perfect walkway that goes all the way around a large portion of the lake, which we walked along one day for quite a while (when we want to check out Chillon Castle - you can walk and you can also take a train, which is really convenient (or you can blend the two like we did). Along this walk there are plenty of monuments, artwork and beautiful areas to stop, admire, and snap a picture or two along the way. One very popular statue is the Freddie Mercury Statue which has stood in its place since 1996. He lived in Montreux and also recorded six albums there so this bronze statue was built to commemorate his life.

Wine tasting is one of my favorite things to do so finding out the Lavaux Vineyards were a short trip away made for a great day trip from Montreux. Traveling with a toddler meant we weren’t exactly prepared for this part of the trip and had made no reservations prior to getting there. The wineries are very small and getting into them wasn’t exactly easy without a reservation. That being said we did have a couple people let us come in and enjoy there wine, gardens and scenery. The vines can be traced back to the 11th century which helped make them a UNESCO World Heritage site. They are on a steep hill that overlook Lake Geneva with many walking paths throughout the region. I would encourage you whether driving or taking the train to take a walk through the paths and enjoy the view. (Mamma pointer: I wouldn’t call these walking paths stroller friendly since they are located on a steep dirt hill. If you have little ones make sure they are able to walk well, like to be held or if they are small enough you can wear them in a baby carrier.)

One night while having dinner at Restaurant 1820 we sat next to a very lovely couple who had been in Switzerland for about 10 years. After talking they gave us some recommendations and while I was grateful for the tips, I’m even more grateful that my husband and I followed them.



The next day we set out on our adventure to tour Callier Chocolate Factory and Gruyere Castle. Callier Chocolate Factory is a short 40 minute drive from Montreux in Broc, Switzerland. The drive is absolutely beautiful and there was no traffic, making it a lovely drive to see this beautiful area. Broc is a very small town and you know you have made it to the correct place by the scent of chocolate as soon as you arrive into town. Tours at the factory leave every 15 minutes so there are plenty throughout the day but I would encourage you to buy tickets earlier as there are many large groups there to tour the factory. The tour through the factory is the story of how Callier Chocolate came to be with plenty of Chocolate tastings throughout the tour , which we all appreciated. The end of the tour has a large store with plenty of chocolate so be prepared to take some goodies home.

Our next stop was Gruyere, which is a short 10 minute drive away. It is a beautiful medieval town where, I’m sure you guessed it, Gruyere cheese is from. One stop through town was the Gruyere Castle, which was home to many notable people in the region until 1938 when its owner decided to turn it into a museum. Parking is not the best getting to the castle but once inside there is a large walkway with restaurants and stores that lead up to the castle where you can take a tour. This was a great stop that a nice area to let kids walk around. Our next stop was a Gruyere Cheese Factory called La Maison du Gruyere. You are able to take a tour of the museum and there is also a gift shop and restaurant.. Although we did not take the tour we did buy some fun souvenirs for us and others in the store and saw some of the cheese storage units while it awaits to be shipped away.

The Details

What to Do
Where to Eat and Drink
  • Montreux Jazz Cafe- a little bit pricey but a great place to grab a drink. Very interesting historical restaurant

  • Restaurant 1820- busy but fun spot right off the lake and main street. Make sure to make a reservation.

  • Restaurant Du Pont- one of my favorite restaurants of the trip. The view is beautiful and food was delicious.

Where to Stay

This is a Marriott property, gorgeous and right on the lake. There was parking in a public garage across the street that is also connected to the train station. The train is easy to navigate and very convenient. There is also a very small market down the street to get food or whatever you need during your trip. If you don’t stay at this hotel I would recommend staying in this area because it is so convenient.


To live is the rarest thing in the world, most people just exist.
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